Bonaire

Bonaire

Bonaire

Per bonaireisland.com:

Picture Bonaire as you approach it for the first time. Untouched white beaches surrounded by a shimmering turquoise sea, with tropical palm trees gently swaying in the trade winds. It’s a sight nearly unchanged since privateers ruled these waters three centuries ago.

That Bonaire remains largely untouched is by design. Because it doesn’t belong to us. It belongs to countless generations yet to come. Like our grandparents, and their grandparents before them, we are merely stewards of the island, protecting it for the future the way it was protected for us.

It’s a responsibility we take very seriously.

Contents

About
Why go

Per US News & World Report: On the pristine island of Bonaire, the main attraction lies beneath the water's surface. The oft-overlooked sister island of Aruba and Curaçao, Bonaire is more famous for its impressive diving than its air of exclusivity. To travel to this paradise without exploring its underwater treasures would be a regrettable misstep.

Though any Caribbean getaway promises a welcome retreat from the clutches of your smartphone, Bonaire is less about relaxing and more about adventure. If you're not an avid diver, hike around Washington Slagbaai National Park and admire the breathtaking scenery, or venture off the beaten path and bike the island's unpaved roads. It's hard to believe that there's so much to do on an island that only measures 112 square miles. You could see the island in just one day… but would you want to?

When to go

Best time to go to Bonaire

In terms of weather, Bonaire has consistent warm weather year round. There is a rainy season from December to March, though these are more like passing showers as opposed to monsoonal rain.

Basically, you can experience amazing warm beachy weather year round.

November to April is the peak season for Bonaire. During this time, it will be more crowded and prices will be higher. Traveling to Bonaire during the offseason is one of its best-kept secrets. For a more relaxed, affordable and peaceful vacation on the island, you will want to visit between April and October.

We went in May and the weather was off and on drizzly, sunny, cloudy, humid and hot. Honestly, it was very nice to have cloudy weather on the two hikes we took. And it was always a relief to jump into the ocean after a day of adventure.

Rod, Pam, Marguerite at Wayaka 2

Rod, Pam, Marguerite at Wayaka 2

Snorkeling & Diving

Per Bonaire Snorkeling Guide: Bonaire has been a well-known dive location for a long time. But snorkelers can enjoy many of the same spots. A healthy reef system around the island and a consistent drop off make this an attractive destination. Above all the best feature about the island is the abundant shore access to snorkel locations. Everything but one location listed in this review can be reached from shore for free. The freedom to access locations from shore allows you to save some money and choose when and where you want to go. Read more… (there is a nice map)

Here is another site map of diving & snorkeling.

Some of the very best diving and snorkeling can be found on Klein Bonaire.

This site tells you about sandy beach access.

Very good site talks about best places to snorkel with details – Could be best site for good information. (and more https://snorkelandhike.com/best-snorkeling-in-the-caribbean/): The best snorkeling spots in Bonaire are probably Andrea I & II, Klein Bonaire, Lac Bay, and 1000 Steps.

Info Bonaire: Bonaire Diving and Snorkeling Sites: This is a must-read site for snorkeling. It gives a bunch of do’s and do not’s and good places to snorkel. It also talks about decontaminating your snorkeling/diving gear to help prevent Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD). Read this article and play the video.

Good Snorkeling Spots

Review this website & this one.

Nature, Adventure & Things to Do

Jim at the summit of Montaña Trail

Jim at the summit of Montaña Trail

Washington Slagbaai National Park

Washington Slagbaai National Park is a national park and ecological reserve on the northwestern part of the island of Bonaire in the Caribbean Netherlands.

Per US News & World Report: A veritable bird-watcher's paradise, Washington Slagbaai National Park's nearly 14,000-acre desert oasis plays host to more than 200 different types of birds. Several beaches, outdoor exhibits, and snorkeling and diving spots are also available. The park also offers ample hiking trails suited for both amateur and expert trekkers. Hikers can choose between three routes. Read more…

Check out the Bonaire Insider’s Guide to Washington Park for more than just snorkeling and hiking. I suggest doing the park as described here.

Eco-Adventures (like hiking)

Sightseeing ideas: Check out this website. It has a lot of ideas. And is a very good website all around. Here are the highlights of things to do:

Getting There

From Portland Oregon, we flew to Miami, with a 3.5 hour layover. It is a 3-hour flight to Bonaire from Miami. We got to Bonaire at 1:30pm Eastern time (same as Miami).

Check out Skyscanner.com to get an idea for your trip.

Getting Around

We rented a truck from Bonaire Rent a Car. If you are going to go the Washington Slagbaai National Park or to the east coast area, you will definitely want a truck or high clearance van. Most rentals appeared to be trucks because of all the diving going on. It is easy to put your gear in a truck, less so in a car. The roads are rough, narrow, and low-shouldered. Use a truck. Ours was automatic transmission and we paid more for it ($509 total for the week). Standard transmission trucks are cheaper, I think. Avis is also on the island and very easy to get to from the airport – walk across the street.

Per U.S. News & World Report: The best way to get around Bonaire is by car. Because Bonaire is so small, it's easy to drive the island's entire coastline in just one day. Renting your own set of wheels is also the easiest way to reach most diving spots, and you'll need rugged vehicles with trunks to transport your tanks and gear, and four-wheel-drive to reach off-radar shore dives. You'll find most of the island's rental companies at the Bonaire International Airport (BON), but many large resorts now have their own “drive and stay” or “dive and drive” packages on site as well that include vehicle rentals. 

The Bonaire International Airport welcomes direct flights from New York, Houston, Atlanta and Miami. The airport is located near Kralendijk on the west coast of the island. If you’re not renting a car, you can reach your accommodations via taxi; there’s a taxi stand at the airport.

Places to Stay

We stayed at SandDollar Bonaire and got it through VRBO.com.

Per The Hotel Guru: The best places to stay on Bonaire tend to be small, so rooms can fill up fast. Book your trip well in advance if travelling during the Christmas or Easter holidays! Check out The Hotel Guru for good advice and recommendations.

Places to Eat

Marguerite wading out from Hang Out Beach Bar

Marguerite wading out from Hang Out Beach Bar

Places to Eat: You can tailor your epicurean experience using this site. There are also beach bars to choose from.

These looked good to us before the trip:

We are not big eaters. That is why we got a place with a kitchen. We did our shopping in downtown Kralendijk at Van Den Tweel. It is a big store with everything you need, to include wine, beer and spirits.

Tips & Things to Know
Trip planning sites
Cost Estimate

Per budgetyourtrip.com: How much does it cost to travel to Bonaire?

$ are approximate. Estimates are for two people, one week, flying from Portland, mid-range budget.

Hotel

VRBO Search

Booking.com Search

$1500

Estimates vary per season

You can get nice accommodations for a week for $1,200 to $2,000

Flight

1842

American Air: +1 day

Best flight, shortest time, and cheapest

Car

400

Standard SUV

Gas

75

Wild Estimate

Food

280

We don’t eat out every night and try to get a kitchen with our hotel. If you eat out, then prices will certainly be different. For us: $40 per day, if that.

Trips and playing

560

$40 per day/person

This can vary wildly

Misc

350

Fudge Factor: $25 per day/person

Entry tax

150

$75/person

Bonaire Nature Fee

80

For National Marine Park & Washington Slagbaai Park

Total

$5237.00

 

Our Bonaire Experience

Daily Photos or Most Memorable Pictures if you just want a quick photo tour.

Our May 2024 trip to Bonaire with friends Jim and Pam lasted seven days. That is not long enough. It usually takes a day or two to get the feel for the area (on any new location) and then you settle into doing things for real. That leaves five days. If you get sick for a couple of days (like I did) then you are down a couple of days more. From now on, I want to make all trips last at least ten days. With that said…

The highlight of our trip had to be the HopiBonaire all-day tour to Washington Slagbaai National Park and surrounding areas. We did a lot of birdwatching, hiking, snorkeling, and sightseeing. Sabastian (Bas) was very knowledgeable about everything. Bas took great care of us, to include an excellent homemade lunch in the park. Bas also takes pictures along the way and shares the best with you. He took some incredible pictures, to include our snorkeling trip to Wayaka 2.

If you plan on going to Bonaire, this is a must-do trip. You can thank me later.

Snorkeling: We quickly discovered that, while there are many places to snorkel in Bonaire right off the shore, entry can be a bit tricky. There are only a couple of sandy beaches from which you can enter the water. All the rest of the shore entries are rocky and coral strewn. And many have a small ledge into the water that might further complicate entry. You will need reef shoes or diving booties to safely (without pain to the bottom of your feet) get into the water. I suggest wearing your fins over your booties or reef shoes. That way you can carry your fins into the water with you and then put them on in the water. I further suggest that your fins be the open-heeled type that strap around your ankle. With that said…

My favorite place for snorkeling was 1000 Steps. Granted, we were a bit limited in our snorkeling because we didn’t have the right fins and reef shoes. I would have remedied that, but after getting sick for a couple of days, my interest ebbed. I need to go back.

But 1000 Steps impressed me because of all the beautiful coral, to include elkhorn coral and an array of soft coral and sponges. In fact, this was the best coral I have seen since snorkeling in Fiji in 1978.

Sadly, Bonaire is not immune to the bleaching effects of warmer waters due to climate change. There was a lot of bleached coral. Also, there is a particularly nasty problem Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD), a rapidly spreading disease affecting over 20 species of hard corals in the Caribbean.

Would I go back for more snorkeling? Absolutely. I feel that I didn’t get a chance to really explore the snorkeling opportunities of Bonaire. I would definitely have a better fin/shoe combination. I will also try to get my diving certification before our next trip. Much of the coral was just out of reach, so to speak, at about 20 to 25 feet. For the best experience, you really want to be down there with the coral. While I can free dive about 25 feet, by the time I get down there, I have about ten seconds before I am ready to get some more oxygen in the lungs.

Hiking: We did a short hike with Bas on our day-long adventure. We also did a couple of hikes on our own:  Montaña Hiking Trail and Red Hill Hiking Trail. Montaña Hiking Trail takes you through a forest to a nice view of the ocean. Red Hill Hiking Trail takes you through a desert, mangrove and rough shore area where waves explode over lava fields. It ends at the longest tree on Bonaire.

The hikes were okay, but I would certainly not go to Bonaire just for the hiking. But they were nice, and we got to see two different environmental zones. Pretty cool.

Mangrove Center: The Mangrove Center kayaking portion was quite good, and a lot of fun just kayaking. Our guide told us about the mangrove ecosystem at various stops along the way. I highly recommend the kayaking part of the trip. The snorkeling part was quite short and, while you get to look under the mangrove roots to see quite a few neat organisms and environs, it was not what I expected. So, the snorkeling portion was just okay, nothing to write home about.

Places where we ate: We only ate out twice. Our first stop was the Bonaire Blond Brewery. It was very expensive and not worth the price. I just didn’t get a good feel for the place, although it was packed and was recommended by many. However, for my tastes – not recommended.

Our second stop was on Pam’s birthday after our Red Hill Hike at the Hang Out Beachbar. We got a table right on the water. The food was great and the atmosphere even better. We watched the windsurfers and enjoyed cold beers. It is definitely a happening place, but (being at or near our 70’s) we didn’t feel out of place at all. We even stepped into the ocean from our table to walk in the shallow, sandy water.

Drive the South Coast: On our first full day we took a drive on the south coast. I think this is a must-do to get a good feel for the island. On this drive we saw many birds, to include Flamingos, explored the Slave Huts, stopped for photos at the pink lakes and salt mountain, and saw several other sites, to include a lost baby Flamingo.

Donkeys: We did not go to the Donkey Sanctuary. It was originally on our list to do so, but our first day of driving the south coast also included seeing a bunch of donkeys near the road. We also saw them just about every other day we were out. They are everywhere. While the Donkey Sanctuary could be interesting in describing the history, etc., of the donkeys on the island, we all agreed that it was not for us. But it might be of interest to you.

Flamingos: We did not go to the Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary. On our trip with HopiBonaire, we saw several Flamingos and got some very good pictures of them. Bas, our guide, told us all about the habits of Flamingos. We saw Flamingos every day of our trip, and sometimes close enough for good photos. They are fascinating animals. If you don’t go on the HopiBonaire all-day trip, then perhaps you will want to visit the sanctuary. We didn’t because Bas gave us good enough information that we opted to go snorkeling instead 😊.

The things you should probably do: Given our experiences, here are the things a first-time visitor should probably do:

Marg’s Notes

Group selfie ocean wall

Group selfie ocean wall

May 1, 2024 (Wednesday): Flights went well. Slept a bit on the PDX to MIA leg. 10:40pm – 1:30pm EDT. My Fitbit said I slept 2 hrs. & 7 min. I think it was more. I felt OK. In MIA we walked around a bit & got a bagel, cream cheese & tea/coffee. Slept most of the next flight! 3 hours! Entry into Bonaire was easy. Basically, they checked our passports. We wandered around trying to find the car rental place, but it turned out they were there to meet us! They called Rod. The gal took us over to the office to get us set up with our truck. Drove to our resort without trouble. We were here before check in, but that was no problem. Excellent place! Sand Dollar Resort. We arrived during “Rincon Day” festival. An annual festival, April 30 & May 1. The gal at the car rental said the stores were closing at 5:00, so we rushed to the market where the parade was starting! Colorful costumes & lots of music. The store was well stocked. Van Den Tweel Supermarket. Had sans, wine & beer at our place. Shower & bed. Hot & windy!

Wednesday's Photos

Pink Flamingo at the Salt Pier

Pink Flamingo at the Salt Pier

May 2, 2024 (Thursday): Slept really well! Woke up ~7:00. Breakfast was cereal & caffine! We decided to explore the Southern Route. So, off we went. Just before 9:00am. We drove along slowly pulling over at all the attractions! Saw our first flamingos! Salt piles! And salt pier. Checked out a lot of possible snorkel areas. Pin ponds. Lots of birds! Donkeys. Lighthouse. By noon we were hot and tired so back to our place for lunch & a rest. Jim & I rested & Rod & Pam went snorkeling. I slept! Rod & Pam were out ~ an hour. They came in for a bit of a rest...I went back to sleep! Then, Rod, Pam & I went snorkeling again. Saw lots ofo fish I haven't seen before. There are stairs into the ocean right in fron of our place. We entered at the north end, then drifted south, & swam back north. After showering, we went to dinner at Blonde Brewery. Rod & I had fish & chips. Back at our place had a bit of wine and then to bed.

Thursday’s Photos

Krested Caracara

Krested Caracara

May 3, 2024 (Friday): Up at 5:30 for our HopiBonaire Tour! Slept well! Had some caffeine & breakfast. Our guide, Sebastian, picked us up at 6:30! It was drizzling with thunder! Our tour was so extensive, it’s hard to list all our stops. We left early so that we could see birds. We headed north towards the National Park, pulling over if Sebastian saw anything interesting. We saw parrots, parakeets, ground doves, other doves, & pigeons. Lots of iguanas on the road because of the rain…warming themselves…drinking…as we got closer to the park, we saw Flamingos! In the road! Which Sebastian said is unusual. He told us a lot about the geology here…coral & volcanic. Very interesting. The coral grew around the island. The land raised up making coral shelves. As we went along on our adventure, Bas had juice & other drinks, snacks (biscuits) & fruit for us! As we toured onto the east coast, the sea was much rougher! We saw big waves & a blow hole. We had planned on taking a hike, but due to the rain, thunder & lightening, we just took a shorter walk into the woods to a salina…which is an inlet that has been blocked by coral, when then filters the water into the ocean…fresh H2O! the birds really like the Salinas! Saw pelicans & GBH (Great Blue Herons), egrets. We continued on for a great lunch of couscous, tapenade, curried eggs, crackers, and tea/juice. Yum! Then, into the park to snorkel. Followed Bas out thru the coral. Rod, Pam & I stayed out while Jim went back in. Bas came back out…The rangers started whistling at us as we were supposed to be out of the water by 3:30. We had to rush! It took quite a while to get back to the entrance (of the park). We changed back into our clothes there to finish up. Bas took us to an overlook in Rincon & we had a beer & snacks. Not sure what time he dropped us off (it was about 5:30), but we were with him 10+ hours! Showers, cheese & crackers, BED! Rod felt sick…a cold ☹. We also saw caracara birds.

Friday’s Photos

Top of Montaña Trail

Top of Montaña Trail

May 4, 2024 (Saturday): We did not rush out this morning! Rod & I have been having bagels & cream cheese for breakfast. After eating, we piled in the truck for a hike. Drove a new route to the Montaña Hiking Trail. Found it easily. Weather was drizzly & cloudy again, but that is keeping it cooler! Rod has a cold. We had it very nice hike up to a viewpoint. Only saw a few birds down by thebe ginning. Saw 3 goats eating some aloe (?)! Lots of lizards. I really liked the hike. A little challenging, but not hard. There was a cooling breeze too. Had some trail mix at the top. We had planned to snorkel, but decided to head back to eat and change. Rod didn’t feel well. So Jim, Pam & I snorkeled off our place. Saw lots close in! Before snorkeling, we went shopping. Rod rested. Very crowded. Ordered pizza for dinner!

Saturday’s Photos

The longest tree on Bonaire

The longest tree on Bonaire

May 5, 2024 (Sunday): Pam’s Birthday! Another hiking day! This time, Red Hill Trail. With Pam and Rod GPS-ing, we found the trailhead, a bit of a challenge. It was warm, but we were out early. Followed pink & blue rocks. The trails was close to & around the dump. Stinky! The Red Hill viewpoint was pretty close to the start. We almost missed it! Great views & a breeze. Not a big hill. We wandered on towards the ocean on the east side. Walked down an inlet (salina?) by mangroves. Saw a heron we hadn’t seen before! The ‘path’ to the beach was a coral/limestone shelf. Glad I had my boots & poles. The ocean was pretty rough. There were several blowholes. The shelf was covered in plastic bottles. Ugh…maybe washed up from the Atlantic? As we walked along the ocean, we were dive bombed by terns! Must have been a nesting aground. We came to another inlet so we headed inland. The inlet was full of sargassum. Stinky! We looked around to find the trail. Jim saw a white vehicle & said, “Isn’t that our truck?” Full circle 😊. The Long Tree was on the way, and we walked to our car. Hot & tired again. Headed to the Hangout Beach Bar! Great place on/in the water. Lots of people sail boarding. I had a burger, Rod a chicen burger, Jim a tuna san, & Pam a quesadilla. All good! R, P & I had 2 beers. Jim was the designated driver. Back for a rest! J & P went snorkeling. Rod was still feeling bad from his cold. We rested! Light dinner. I had veggies.

Sunday’s Photos

Rod from beneath the waves

Rod from beneath the waves

May 6, 2024 (Monday): Snorkeling Day! Up & out early headed to 1000 Steps! Not many people there, so found a good parking spot. Down the stops (not 1,000) to the beach. Was a bit hard getting in. wore our reef shoes to the water. Luckily, Pam & Jim have reef socks, so we could hand off our shoes! Beautiful coral! Rod & I headed out south. Saw lots. Then, we went back to pick up Pam so Jim could go ashore. The 3 of us went north this time. Saw more neat things. Tube coral (actually sponges). Then back again. Had a snack, but back for a beer. We took our beers down to the water front. I rinsed off in the shower down there, then we sat in the sun. We were a bit chilled! Rod got into the water & swam quite a way with his goggles. Looking for critters…Then lunch & a rest. Next stop was Andrea II. Easy to find, close by, & easy entry. Less coral, more fish. Not too busy when we got there. Same game plan! Good beach! Jim saw an octopus! Back to shower & Happy Hour. Cheese, crackers, etc.

Monday’s Photos - I didn't take any pictures on Monday because it was a snorkeling day. My underwater camera failed. So, here are some snorkeling pictures taken over the course of the week.

Mangrove guide and group

Mangrove guide and group

May 7, 2024 (Tuesday): Up & out in the morning for more snorkeling. To Tori’s Reef. Easy entry. Very nice. Quite a bit of coral out aways & lots of fish. We swam around until ~11:00. Then headed back to our place for lunch & to get ready for our p.m. adventure. Headed out for our 1:30 kayak & snorkeling adventure in the mangroves. Very interesting & fun. I didn’t see many fish, but everyone else did. Kayaking was fun! We were done at 4:00. Rinsed of & changed there. We headed to the end of the land…there is a bar there. Unfortunately, it is the “Weekend Bar,” so it was closed! Big piles of conch shells thee! Stopped for gas on the way back. We finished off our beer down at the waterfront. Finished up our food with grilled cheese sans, veggies, etc. Finished the wine too! Staged a bit for packing. To bed ~9:00.

Tuesday’s Photos