2025 - Hawaii, The Big Island

Most mornings on the Big Island began early — coffee, a simple breakfast, and a drive north before the crowds. Waialea Beach gave us slightly rough water and a refreshing return to the Pacific, while the steep hike down the Pololū Trail led to a dramatic black sand beach where wind and surf filled the valley. Sitting there, it felt easy to imagine centuries of Hawaiian history unfolding along that same coastline. Crossing the island toward Hilo revealed how quickly the landscape shifts — from dry lava fields to green hills, waterfalls at Akaka Falls, and high volcanic slopes near Mauna Kea where goats grazed under changing skies.Snorkeling became a theme of the week. Captain Cook offered clear water and abundant fish — along with abundant people — while Two Step felt calmer in the early hours, its coral a mix of bleached and brilliant. The unforgettable highlight came after sunset during the night manta ray tour, when enormous wings looped and fed just inches beneath us in dark water lit from below — crowded and cold, but absolutely worth it. Between ocean days we wandered sacred grounds at Puʻuhonua O Hōnaunau, hiked misty inland trails scented with ginger, and allowed ourselves quiet evenings of simple meals and a nightcap. The trip wasn’t just about big moments, but the steady rhythm between them.